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Hinoki Cypress 34 inches high
The branches were long and foliage was mainly at the ends |
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I removed about 15 inches from the top
I needed to shorten the tree as I was going to develop the structure as a smaller image |
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Detail
Finding the tree in the bush was indeed a challenge |
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Wiring
I wired everything including the small twigs. Covering the branches with Vet Wrap for protection on thicker branches |
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Detail
I wrapped the branch then applied two long wires for support. I then wrapped that and finally wired the branch. |
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Mist
Always mist at regular intervals to keep the humidity levels up when working on a Bonsai. |
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Other techniques
I also used some self amalgamating electrical tape for support wiring |
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Finding the pads
Now the pads start to take shape |
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Detail of pads taking shape
Front |
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Detail Back.
A bonsai should look good all the way round and not in one dimension of course. |
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Detail Apex taking shape
A good apex is essential |
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Wiring Detail
I used around 5 or six pounds of wire and the wiring took us around five hours. |
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Front of completed Bonsai
I wanted an elegant image of a large mature tree. Was it achieved? |
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And this is what I started with.
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Back
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Side Right
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Side Left
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Is David happy?
The winner of the tree with the pot I chose for this Hinoki. Made by Brian Albright of Norwich England |
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Completed Tree.
Some of the images of MABS were taken by Jim Brant, David Yedwab and Irv Kleiman. |
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Cedar elm.. (Ulmus crassifolia)
Cedar Elm stems may also have corky wings but should not be confused with Winged elm. Cedar elm, unlike Winged Elm, has the smallest leaves of the elms and is one of the few with fruit (samaras) maturing in the fall. [Winged Elm (Ulmus alata) is also known as Cork Elm, or Wahoo Elm.]
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I removed the top part
The tree was all down here below the original apex. I needed to try and find a tree like image in this material. Well I supposed that is why folk book me as a speaker! |
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Most of the detialed wiring had already been done by this stage
This elm needed a basic shape as it had never been worked on. I was working with what I had and while a collected tree of some considerable age, |
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-after wiring and shaping the start of its life as a bonsai was now here. I would suggest planting in a very long pot with the tree to the left side on a little mound with moss on the mound only and grit elsewhere. To give perpective and balance. |
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Demo Yew in Hartford
I chose this as the front |
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Detail
This is the back after carving |
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Detail of Apex
Although unusual, I decided that this was not right for my proposed creation |
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The back
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Apex
detail prior to work |
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Detail Bark
I found this stub. I would be removing the bark in a Shari to this point |
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Plan
I quickly sketched this plan for the tree. While I normally just 'do it' I also realise that the audience sometimes like to see what I am trying to achieve. |
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Back of Yew
I have started to wire the foliage. While not much there, it will soon grow into the pads I would like to see. |
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Wiring
Wiring should be thorough but not obtrusive |
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Shaping
I needed to remove some of the wood on the apex and back of the Yew. I used a Samurai tornado bit on a die grinder and a Arbortech from Dale Cochoy, Wild Things, on the trunk |
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Detail
I took the carving and shari to the previously mentioned old stump cut.I also undercut the edges to allow better rolling over of the cambium. I edged the carving with cut paste to protect the edges from drying out. |
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three quarter view
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The back
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The front
The foliage pads will soon develop with lots of feeding and then pinching. This should take no more that 18 months. |
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Pretty near the original sketch
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The roots
This tree has a great Nebari or surface root. |
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The other side
All the way around. Wonderful! |
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NorthernWhite Cedar-Thuja Occidentalis
BSLV Club Tree.
Not true Cedars but Arborvitae. |
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This view is a better front
There are two main Thujas in North America and these are Occidentalis and Plicata. |
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Side
After styling. The tree will take two years to fill out the foligae. Never let the foliage be wired upside down as that can damage the growth and kill the foliage |
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After a year
the tree should fill out with feeding and pinching of tips |
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Front
I like this as a front.
There is also an imported Korean Thuja commonly found in North America called Orientalis. |
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Juniper Chinensis
This was the Great Swamp club visit |
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This will be the front
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After two hours
I did not feel that I had done the tree justice as I would have preferred to have prewired more detail onto the image. |
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Juniper Chinensis
Bergen Bonsai.
Now this was a challenge. In fact I almost gave up on the tree as I had nothing else to demo with. |
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Solution?
Then I found a dead Bald Cypress stump |
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Peter and George cut this down for me.
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Thing and stump
When planted the stump will be wired to the tree under the soil. I plan to design this tree in a southern Penjing style. |
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Another view-Front?
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Or back
Still a problem |
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At last
Designed after two hours using the dead stump.The the stump would still need to be treated before planting. The pads need more growth and lots of feeding and misting and the pot should be a circular shallow Terracota Lotus shape |
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